Talk me down, Oppo [Update: Drove it, details inside]

"for Michigan" (formichigan)
06/07/2019 at 09:15 • Filed to: toyota, supra, celica, Craigslist

!!! UNKNOWN HEADER TYPE (MULTI-LINE BREAK?) !!!

[Bump for the morning crowd.]

Went to look at the Supra today. It needed a jump, but with a little coaxing it fired up and ran great. Aired up the tires and drove it around for a bit. Once I got used to the clutch engagement point, it went through all the gears great and reminded me just how much I miss driving a stick.

Checked the coolant and oil and both looked great. There was oil seepage around the valve cover gasket, but I would be surprised if there wasn’t. Belts look good, too.

It’s a little rustier than I had hoped. While the sunroof, hatch, spare tire well, and suspension mounting points are are all solid, the quarters behind the rear wheels are rusted through and there are rust holes on the bottom of the sills directly below both B-pillars. Has definitely had body work done above the rear wheel wells, but it seems well done as there are no bubbles, waves, or rough spots.

The seller said the sunroof doesn’t leak, but the plywood under the rear hatch was damp and the carpet was discolored. It was only under the wheels that were sitting in the back so perhaps it could be condensation, but it’d be something to watch out for in the future.

The interior in general is very faded, but complete. While the driver’s seat is coming apart at the seams a bit, there are no tears in the upholstery. The dash is not cracked, but the steering wheel and shift knob are both pretty rough. Power mirrors and windows work, though both mirror housings are damaged and the passenger side mirror seems to be stuck. I failed you Oppo and did not test the popup headlights.

The tires are a little too wide. The fronts rub at full lock. But it comes with the original wheels. Got it up to 50-something mph and there was a little shake up front, but nothing severe. Stopped great too.

So what do you think Oppo? Does this seem fair for a project car or should I pass? My personal preference is for something a little less rusty, but that’s unsurprisingly difficult to find and pricey in the Rust Belt.

Original Post

This just showed up on one of the local CraigsLists....

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

DISCUSSION (46)

for Michigan > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:01

Link in case of Kinja: https://toledo.craigslist.org/cto/d/bowling-green-1983-toyota-supra-very/6901847963.html

HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:02

“I wish you would jump off of that ledge my friend”

someassemblyrequired > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:08

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/d/canton-1989-toyota-supra-turbo/6893665102.html

ETA: S cratch that, some crusty spots in one of the photos. Just offer $2400 for the ‘83 , then you’ve been talked down.

way2blu does a rev update > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:08

Drive down and buy it!

MKII Supras are Peak Supra and that looks like a very good deal. A fresh paint job (or even a dip) and you’ll be golden.

WilliamsSW > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:13

Hmm, seems cheap actually. Do it ( if it’s not rusty)

KnowsAboutCars > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:27

Whispers to ear: Buy it!

shop-teacher > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:31

Well, check very very carefully for rust, but if it's solid that's a damn good buy.

Pixel > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:35

Definite signs of paint work around the rear wheel-wells and on the front fenders . I’d make sure those aren’t made of bondo, crawl underneath to look at the floors and check the shock towers and suspension mounting points. If all that is as solid as they claim, GO FOR IT!

for Michigan > shop-teacher
06/01/2019 at 10:36

Yeah, I’m looking up common areas for rust right now. Seems like that’s probably why the hatch doesn’t match the rest of the car.

ETA: I guess the black hatch is stock. Several pictures on GIS show mint condition cars with the black hatch and rear bumper.

for Michigan > Pixel
06/01/2019 at 10:38

Definitely signs of some body work in common rust spots. I’ll be sure to check for more rust if I go look at it.

LongbowMkII > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:41

That’s factory. Check under the hatch floor. The side wells in the fenders are the prime locations

for Michigan > LongbowMkII
06/01/2019 at 10:43

Yeah, I started looking up threads on various forums about common rust areas. Looks like hatch, spare tire well, quarters, and sunroof are the common ones. Saw sills mentioned as well.

LongbowMkII > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 10:45

I’d buy it if it was close assuming it has floorboards. But I’m biased

for Michigan > LongbowMkII
06/01/2019 at 10:47

I’ve emailed the seller. Waiting on a response...

ItalianJobR53 - now with added 'MERICA and unreliability > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 11:09

Talk you out of it? N O

LongbowMkII > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 11:10

Nice

Captain of the Enterprise > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 11:46

Probably needs a battery lol but like the others said if the rust checks out and you can afford it I think it’s pretty sweet

and 100 more > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 12:11

This is why AA meetings aren’t held at the bar, you know...

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 12:49

Hmmm... could be a nice price. But I strongly recommend seeing it in person, crawling underneath to see what it looks like and starting it from cold yourself and taking it for a spin.

When you’re in this price range, never buy anything without seeing/touching/testing it yourself

for Michigan > Manwich - now Keto-Friendly
06/01/2019 at 13:44

Oh for sure.

for Michigan > and 100 more
06/01/2019 at 13:44

This is true. lol

SiennaMan > for Michigan
06/01/2019 at 14:14

I love how the header is a request to be talked down and almost every response is either practical advice on what to check before buying or straight encouragements to buy..

for Michigan > SiennaMan
06/01/2019 at 14:25

It’s exactly what I expected tbh.

for Michigan > LongbowMkII
06/06/2019 at 20:29

It has floor boards.

There is a rust hole on both sills directly below the B-pillar and the quarters have rust at the lower edges and at the back of the wheel wells. There’s a bit of bubbling below the gas cap door as well.

But it has solid shock towers and no signs of rust in the spare tire well.

BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 20:33

Dude. The price is right on the cusp of eff-it project car money vs. hey maybe I should think about this.

Supras aren’t my thing. But if they’re your thing, that seems to be an acceptable quality project that won’t lose money. If you’re able to restore it *really* well, it could be worth quite a bit in a few years.

for Michigan > BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind
06/06/2019 at 20:39

That’s kind of my thought. Even if I don’t clean it up and make a bunch on it, I feel like it’d be pretty easy to at least break even on this car if I decided to sell it.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 20:40

If you like then buy it!

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 20:45

I don’t mean to assault you with my anecdotes, but that’s exactly what I’m going to do:

Unbeknownst to Oppo, I once owned a 1985 Celica GT. It’s basically the same body but with a shorter nose and narrower. Like all 80s Toyotas, the steel is super thin. There were holes under my spare tire (which allowed moisture in) , but clean elsewhere. But your Supra here: Once the rust starts on this era of Toyotas, there is no stopping it. And it’s always worse than it looks.

While my hatch didn’t leak, my b-pillar did as did my soonroof. Fixed the sunroof but could never chase down the B-pillar. Very frustrating. Water inside these is BAD. Very little insulation and th e interior molds quickly. You have to clean or dry out often, plan where you park, when you drive, etc. if you have any active leak.

If you can get it cheap, great fun. Not really worth fixing, not great if you can't drive it 6 months out of there depending on your circumstances. YMMV

shop-teacher > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 20:55

That’s a lot of rust and wetness. If you just want something to play with for a little while, this could do the job , but it sounds too far gone to be worth properly fixing up.

LongbowMkII > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 21:00

Yeah those look like p-type width tires (225) instead of the l- type (195) there will be a bit of rub. One of the best upgrades I did to my l-type was the P-type recaro seats.

for Michigan > Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
06/06/2019 at 21:01

“Unbeknownst to Oppo”

Kinja'd!!!

This is why I wanted to get Oppo’s take on it. I know there are several classic Celica/Supra owners here with the experience to talk me out of a bad idea.

for Michigan > shop-teacher
06/06/2019 at 21:04

I’m not looking to burn up money with a disposable fun car, so in that case I may pass on it.

for Michigan > LongbowMkII
06/06/2019 at 21:07

I didn’t check the width, but that seems right. It sure looks good with those meaty tires on the faux- minilites.

SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 21:10

Whilst the B pillars on these was never massively structural....no.

Having played this game before with 80s Japanese cars, I take the view that if the junction between the B pillars and the sills is more rust than metal then it’s beyond economical salvage.

If however you are a glutton for punishment and have the time, skills and equipment akin to Bad Obsessions Motorsport...then this purchase remains viable.

for Michigan > SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
06/06/2019 at 21:15

And that was kind of my thought as soon as I saw the holes in the sills. I wish I had the time, skills, or equipment that they do, but I don’t.

shop-teacher > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 21:15

I was really hoping it would be as good as it looked in the ad, but unfortunately reality happened. The smart money walks away from this one.

for Michigan > shop-teacher
06/06/2019 at 21:16

Same. I was really excited about it until I saw those sills.

promoted by the color red > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 22:36

Only if it’s $2k or lower.

Now, the next question: how hard will it be to source replacement sheet metal and how willing are you to fabricate pieces that don’t exist?

for Michigan > promoted by the color red
06/06/2019 at 23:01

Willing? Absolutely. Able? I have no clue what I’m doing.

I’m honestly considering telling the seller I’ll give him $1500 for it and seeing what he says.

promoted by the color red > for Michigan
06/06/2019 at 23:26

Willing? Absolutely. Able? I have no clue what I’m doing.

Hah, me too!

$1500 sounds like a good opening bid.

I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker > for Michigan
06/07/2019 at 09:23

Nobody is going to try and convince you not to do it. Do it!

facw > for Michigan
06/07/2019 at 09:25

My feeling is that the performance of any car from the ‘80s is going to be disappointing, which means you have to love the look. Unless you’ re are willing to do the work to clean up the rust, etc., you should probably pass.

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > for Michigan
06/07/2019 at 09:30

$2500 sounds like too much for this. If it was my money, $1500 is the most I would be willing to spend.

MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig > for Michigan
06/07/2019 at 09:36

Honestly try and find a P-type instead. Better seats, LSD, and fender flares.

for Michigan > MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig
06/07/2019 at 10:43

Clean P -types g o for like $12K around here.

I know they have different gearing in the diff, but I was under the impression that both types have an LSD .

MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig > for Michigan
06/07/2019 at 15:23

It may have been an option on the L type, but it is standard on the P-type. It was not standard on the L.